Otavalo Indigenous Artisan Market - A Feast for the Eyes
| Otavalo is nestled
in a picturesque valley - in the province of Imbabura - surrounded by
volcanic lagoons (i.e., Lago Mojanda), and mountains like Imbabura
(4,630m) and Cotacachi (4,995m).
In addition to its impressive countryside setting of
sparkling lakes, ageless volcanoes and patchwork-covered hillsides,
Otavalo has gained its fame and reputation for its world-renowned
indigenous artisan market. Although numerous other markets exist (e.g.
Pujili, Zumbahua, Ambato) throughout this small, yet diverse Andean
nation, none can compare to the size and variety of crafts that are to
be found in this open air market.
Otavalo is a small city of about 50,000 mainly indigenous inhabitants
located some 90 minutes north by road up the Pan-American Highway from
Ecuador’s capital city, Quito. Otavalo rests at 8,300 ft (2,530 m)
above sea level in a spring-like fertile valley known for its dairy and
rose production.
Villagers from the
surrounding areas - mainly from the neighboring village of Peguchi -
bring their wares (as they have been doing for hundreds of years) to
the Otavalo market and spend their day bartering, exchanging, selling
and socializing. Today, the main clientele are huge crowds of
foreigners looking to marvel at and/or purchase souvenirs.
Although the market is more extensive and filled with more tourists on
Saturdays, you can visit it any day of the week and find an impressive
variety of Ecuadorian handicrafts. By 9 a.m. most of the artisans have
already set up their basic stands and kiosks to display their products
and the air is filled with traditional Andean music. The main
difference is that on Saturdays the market extends beyond the city’s
central plaza (Plaza de Ponchos) and out into the side streets. In
addition, there is an early morning Saturday animal market held on the
edge of the city where such animals as donkeys, pigs, chickens, llamas
and horses are bought, sold or traded.
The artisans make efficient use of such raw
materials as nuts, beads, wood, precious metals & stones, leather
and wool to craft their wares. Artifacts commonly found include
traditional musical instruments like the panpipe (or rondador);
a myriad of styles of jewelry made from beads, stones and precious
metals; hats (including the Panama and Fedora); wood carvings; dolls;
paintings and clothing. After a few minutes strolling through this
colorful open air market and you will quickly realize that the woven
(mostly by hand) products predominate.
This is where your eyes can feast of the enormous
variety of shapes, sizes, textures and colors of the numerous
ornately-woven textile products that are proudly displayed. Your head
may even spin after seeing such a range of scarves, table cloths, bags,
blankets, sweaters, hammocks, wall hangings and shawls that dance
before your eyes.
As a market which has its roots in hundreds of years
of Andean tradition, it is expected (and actually enjoyed by the
artisan seller) that potential buyers barter and haggle over the price.
If you automatically pay the first price you were quoted, you are more
than likely paying at least double the normal price. I can personally
vouch for this from personal experience - my wife is Ecuadorian and I
look like the typical foreign tourist. What my wife is quoted is almost
always at least half the price that her ‘gringo’ husband is offered.
Caveat: To
get better bargains it is advisable to visit the market on any day
except Saturday. Why? The higher the number of potential buyers milling
around, the less likely the price will drop drastically. If they don’t
sell to the first person they may well sell to the next, and so on.
When there are fewer tourists, you will notice that the pricing is a
lot more flexible.
Predominately an indigenous population, you will may
notice the traditional artisan busy at work ...
You will first be hit by the numerous
brightly-coloured articles on display ...
Many products are laboriously crafted by hand ..
The market starts life early in the morning and
operates every day of the week (with Saturday and Wednesday being the
busiest days of the week). A very early Saturday morning animal market
operates on the outskirts of the town.
On other days, the stands may start be dismantled
and the vendors backing up their goods earlier in the afternoon due to
a less potential buyers walking around.
Typical items include hand (and machine) woven
textiles such as sweaters ....
You will quickly note a wide range of colours and
patterns to make your eyes spin ...
Products such as small hand bags ...
... classic antique-style dolls ....
... hand carved wooden chess sets ...
.. wood figurines ...
... to delicate jewelery ....
After a few hours, potential shoppers & buyers
are likely to get saturated with the huge variety of items ....
... their colours ....
.. the patterns ...
... shapes ...
... and textures ....
You will be surprised by the intricate textures ...
The variety of jewellery ...
The myriad of designs ...
And the enormous variety of patterns found in the
market.
Traditional items like the Panama hats ..
All the shapes, sizes and designs made from natural
wools (mainly llama, but includes alpaca) ...
Rugs and almost anything else that can be made from
llama and alpaca ...
And products made from readily available materials
like nuts ...
Today, fewer and fewer items are still hand made (or
hand woven) .. being replaced by machine-produced items that are less
expensive and time consuming to fabricate.
Or perhaps pick yourself up a hat to protect you
from the intense Andean sunshine ...
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HANDMADE WEAVING &
DYING
IN ECUADOR'S SIERRA
Quietly tucked away in the quiet corners past the commercial centers of
Otavalo and Peguchi is the small and unassuming community of San
Roque (located approximately 20 minutes from Otavalo, 10 minutes
from Peguche).
Here I was warmly received by Nelson Cordova, one of two sons that
still continue the art of handmade weaving that was taught by his
father. All the family members participate in the production.
The women tend to dedicate themselves to the preparation of materials
... from spinning and dying the yarn. The dying process if mainly from nogal
(or walnut), including the bark, nut and leaves. The mean, in contrast,
generally dedicate themselves to actual weaving.
While Nelson patiently went to work on various works of art and
patience, of various colours and sizes he would explain the process
from scratch. He also related life in the community and the indigenous
way of life ... adding a more rounded understanding of the whole
process.
As Nelson explained that today there are fewer and fewer indigenous
people that maintain the old customs of manual weaving, opting to work
in surrounding farms and fabrication plants. He explained that mass
volume, machine-produced items are driving this way of life into
extinction. The textile plants easily copy the designs and churn out
apparently similar products at a much lower cost and in great
volume.
Only through direct experience, watching these artisan hard at work
with their hands and imagination, does one gain a deeper appreciation
of the laborious and meticulous art of hand-weaving, knowledge and
skills that have been handed down generation after generation.
In our continuing and dedicate efforts to protect
Ecuador's natural and cultural history, we (Robin Slater and
Sangay Touring) are in the process of planning and arranging
private educational tours for individuals, groups and institutions that
wish to, not only experience and witness first-hand manual weaving, but
contribute directly to continued survival of the local indigenous
community of San Roque, Imbabura and the local weavers.
Other sample images
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